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ALONG THE NORTHERN COAST AND INTO THE ORKNEYS

We had a very long day on Wednesday if we wanted to make it for the last ferry to the Orkneys. We grabbed something for breakfast and lunch at the supermarket, and then began the long drive along the northern coast of Scotland.

There were a couple of stops on our way to the Smoo Caves in order to have a small walk along a mountain creek, where Budgie talked to us about how the forests disappeared due to the war needs in the twentieth century. The weather was lovely at the Kylesku bridge and we could take some good pictures.

By the time we arrived to Smoo, it was almost lunch time. We weren´t sure about going into the caves or having lunch, and we ended up walking down to the beach and trying to get into the boats going to the caves. Mei, the Malaysian girl, didn´t want to wait for the whole group, and she insisted on getting inside before everybody. That caused a delay for the rest of the group. I opted to stay in the beach and picked up a few stones for my collection. I am not so keen on caves unless they are big or you have something to look forward to (such as Proteus in Postojna).

Budgie got everything ready to get lunch, and we had some sandwiches and crisps. We also met two very nice couples from Barcelona, and we shared stories and even some whisky.

Weather was foggy and a bit rainy, and to top it we were under pressure to get to the ferry to St Margaret´s Hope. It was a long drive, and I don´t know if I would have managed it on my own with all the coming and goings and overtakings.

But we arrive on time, and the clouds disappear and we are able to see seals and a school of dolphins and the arrival to St Margaret´s Hope is quite lovely. Our hostel for the night is located right there, and we have it for ourselves.

We cook fajitas (still don´t get this obsession with Mexican food and anglos, specially when it is way too spicy) and then we go to the pub. It´s only ourselves, and we taste the local whisky ( Highland Park and Scapa ). The guys play some snooker and we get back to the hostel to rest after the long day.

Power from the glens

I had to wake up too early on Tuesday morning, because the bus was supposed to be leaving the offices of Wild on Scotland at 8:00 am. We had a very long day in front of us.

So, I paid the previous day, woke up early, and headed out. It was raining a little bit, and I ended up getting a taxi in front of the bus station. It dropped me near the offices in the Royal Mile with plenty of time to grab a coffee, pay for the tour and meet some of the people going on the tour. Most of the people were going on the 4 day trip to Skye, and there were only 5 of us going to the Orkneys. A couple of people joined us. They were going to travel up to Ullapool and up there join the bus going back to Loch Ness, before returning the following day to Edinburgh.

Our guide was called Budgie, and he was really patient with all of us. I should say that the group was most peculiar. By the time we joined with the people coming from Skye, there was two Australian girls, 1 Italian, 2 Catalan boys, 1 girl from Germany, 4 couples from Zaragoza, myself (from Bilbao) and a girl from Malaysia. The German and the Malaysian girl used to hang on their own, and there was a couple of "interesting" arguments later on.

Anyway, we got on our way out of Edinburgh and poor Budgie kept explaining stories about the different places we were travelling through and nobody was listening. He went through a quick who-is-who of the Scottish kings (I guess the Braveheart film did a poor job of explaining what was life back in the Middle Ages) and tried to explain about the Jacobites in order to leave something in our mind before having to explain everything at Culloden field. I swear I could listen some snoring.

We got lost near Perth, and had to turn around before arriving to Hermitage Forest for a quick walk along the river. The water was brown due to the turf fields upstream, and Budgie showed us a small viewing platform, complete with mirrors and a balcony over the river. It was built back in the XVIIIth century by the duke of Athol during the Ossian folly. There was a wave of romanticism across Europe, and the poems of the ancient warrior (supposedly discovered by James MacPherson) swept over writers as Goethe, emperors as Napoleon or musicians as Schubert or Mendelssohn. The pavilion was named in Ossian´s homage. Years later it was discovered that those ancient rhymes didn´t exist.

From Hermitage we continued on our way to Inverness. We stopped at Pitlochry to grab something to eat. A nice, small place in that mock Victorian-Scottish style from the end of the XIXth century. We had to stop at Inverness to pick up Meike, the German girl, and then we took the road to Ullapool. There were a couple of stops on the way at Rogie Falls and Corrieshalloch Gorge. At this last stop we had to walk over a hanging bridge to get to the other side and some good photo ops, but there was a whole bus of German retirees walking and standing and jumping on the bridge, and I am not really fond of that kind of things. If they were planning to die, they could wait until I was long gone.

We drove along some pretty impressive dams. The land had that desolate feeling of the highlands, small bushes, scrubs and stones and a big, big sky. The drive down to Ullapool was similar to a few I had driven down in the Cork coast of Ireland.

Ullapool is a small town where the ferries from Skye stop. There are a few pubs, a small fishing harbor and a good chipper. We met the people from Skye at the parking place from the supermarket, swapped bused and got on our way to do some shopping for dinner and breakfast. The Wild on Scotland tours work on a kitty basis. You put some money before leaving and everyday there is a trip to the supermarket to buy the food for the day. We planned on having burritos and salad for dinner.

When we got to the hostel, we found out that our booking hadn´t been kept, and we were moved to another place, the Ceilidh Place, that didn´t have a kitchen. Budgie gave us some money so that we could go and have dinner on our own, and we dropped our bags. I shared a double room with Chiara, the Italian girl. We went for a walk along the harbour and met my first seal swimming there. We had dinner at the chipper place, scampis and chicken breast and afterwards it was time to get to bed.

TINY DANCER

I don´t know if I have mentioned that weather on that August monday was glorious. Blue skies, soft cotton clouds and I was there, queuing at some small place in the New Town to get myself inside a tiny theatre to watch a one-man show. And I had bought the tickets on a whim and I was wondering if I wasn´t going to be better off sitting on the park.

I think there was around 80 seats. It was a third floor, and the stage was full of flowing white veils. It was a sold-out performance, and once everybody sat, an svelte man dressed in pyjamas came out and launched into a mesmerizing performance. Ricardo Melendez was a dancer at the Alvin Ailey American Ballet Company, and it shows. It begins at the psychiatric hospital where Njinsky is interred due to a nervous meltdown, and it tells his story from boyhood across stardom. The sister, the protectors, the ballerinas, Diaghilev, the wife ... He played all the characters, simply by changing voices and demeanour. A bit of a hush in the audience when he shed all clothing (a few complained afterwards ... probably they hadn´t read the brochure when they booked and then felt offended). At the end there was a terrifying silence and everybody broke into applause. It has been years since I have been so touched by a play. A marvelous story.

And continuing with the dance theme, I had to be at the Festival Hall by 7 pm. "Impressing the Czar", the William Forsythe choreography was being brought back to life by the Flanders Ballet. So, I went back to the hostel, changed and run away from the irish creepy man who was telling everybody how he had been "robbed" by the scalpers (he had paid more than 100 pounds for a Tatoo ticket).

I tried to have something to eat before entering. An indian place around the corner that a friend had spoken about was full (and with people queuing in the street), so I ended in "Always Sunday" with a bowl of curried parsnip soup. Very, very good.

My seat at the Festival Hall was in the 4th row. It was way too near to the stage, and I had to force my neck in order to have a decent view. A very nice scottish lady sat at my right side, and we chatted about the festival and the different plays. She had been so lucky to have seen Nureyev back in the Seventies, and lots of great dancers.

OK, and now to the play or whatever it was ... Strange, that´s the only way of describing it. First and third act a bit confusing and difficult to follow. Wonderful, wonderful second act ( the well-known "In the middle, somewhat elevated". It stuck out as something different and separated from the total) and too energetic last act. It was fine, but I think that I have seen better Forsythe things ... and also I happen to love our very own Compañia Nacional.

It ended up fairly late, almost 10 in the night, and I had to get back to my hostel and get everything ready for the next day and the beginning of my Orkney Tour. The night was very mild, and the walk down along the North Bridge and the Balmoral hotel was lovely. Once in the hostel I found the room full with 4 young japanese girls typing furiously in their laptops (the hostel had free WiFi). Kids ... lugging equipment all over the world instead of a nice pair of sandals.

POTTER FOR BEGINNERS

When I saw that one of the plays at the Fringe Festival was "Potted Potter", I knew that I had to be there. An reduced version of the first 6 books in only one hour. It sounded like fun (although my dear siblings maintain that it is more of a "nerdy" thing. They kept calling me "friqui" all the time).

So, there I went climbing again the road into the Plaisance area. The queue was pretty bad at this point, and I still had more than half an hour to wait to get into the theatre. Lots of kids, but also grown-ups and an american group all dressed-up as the HP characters (I forgot to take a picture, so sorry about that ...). There are a few bars in the area, so you won´t go thirsty while waiting. As I was on my own, I was able to get a very decent place near one of the Quidditch loops. There were a lot of kids, true, but there were also many grown-ups as myself, both in groups and alone.

The whole thing is advertised as a parody. It is a bit of a panto and the two guys doing it ( I think they are "Blue Peter" presenters) are quite funny. It´s not, certainly, something for people who take their love of the Potter canon to extremes (the group dressed as wizards came out grumbling about it). But if you like silly jokes,you will be able to enjoy it, even if you are not really a Pottermaniac. They try to reduce the 6 books to one hour, with only two actors because one of them spent all the money they had for casting (get inside joke about all the british acting class luminaries appearing in th Potter films) in a marvellous dragon for the 4th book. In the meantime, one of the guys is supposedly reading the last book and will tell all at the end. So, the audience is divided between Gryffindor and Slytherin, the archenemies houses at Hogwarts. We got two warthogs representing the castle ( did you get the really bad joke?), we got questions about how could it be that Dumbledore, the greatests wizard of our time, went into teaching, we got a plastic dragon ( and no CGIs were used), we got an analysis of "Snape, good or evil?", we were informed that the last book was "a blood bath !!! ". There was a Quidditch game and Gryffindor score 1 goal, and although Slytherin caught the Snitch (a giant yellow bird), the actors decided to cheat and give the win to Gryffindor (first time anyone had gotten a quaffle through the hoops). Slytherin got drenched in water, for losing, and Gryffindor too, because nobody likes smug winners. Add to that an arousing rendition of "I will survive" ( with a Voldemort in red little horns ), and it was really, really good fun.

My next play was in an hour. I had bought a ticket for "Nijinsky´s last dance" on a whim that morning, and I had to walk down and up to the New Town, and find the Assembly place where it was being represented. It wasn´t far away, but it was a bit of walk, and I had to forget about sitting down for a coffee on my way. A frappucino at Starbucks had to be, while I was humming "I will survive".

EDINBURGH PICTURES

Here you a link to my picasaweb account and you can see some of the pictures I took during my stay in Edinburgh.

http://picasaweb.google.com/covaderegil/EdinburghAugust2007

I am in the process of labelling them with names and descriptions, but you can have an idea of what to expect up there.

FROM EUROTRASH TO CARLTON HILL

My first encounter with the Fringe was going to be an australian extravaganza based on our very own Eurovision festival.

I had returned to the hostel after my Blue meal in order to get ready, and I met a "creepy" irish guy staying in the lounge room. I don´t know if you have previously experienced something like that, but it was like a blast from the past. He was certainly older than everybody around, and he looked as if he had had a few beers already. He kept asking every single girl around where they were from, and upon hearing the country he was deciding that " Spain means Barcelona, Italy means Roma, Australia means Sidney", he was asking how was life there, improvising songs and asking if you would invite him to stay at your place. I had forgotten that I didn´t like the song "A pair of brown eyes", not at all. What I did find interesting was the fact that the couple of americans in the hostel found him nice and lovely and oh so sweet, while the rest of the people were absolutely terrified. So, I think that almost everybody exhaled a huge breath when he was sent towards the Military Tatoo, after having been convinced by one australian guy that all the shows were fully booked out.

Anyway, off I went to climb the Edinburgh hills towards the Plaisance Grand, where the Eurobear was being held every night. There was a long queue, and there was also a bar outside where you could buy beers and mixed drinks to get into the auditorium. There was a group of girls giving out stickers so you would know the country you belonged to, and you could buy "clappers" and little flags to wave around. I ended up belonging to Sweden (bad omens after all these years). The spectacle was hilarious. It was supposedly hosted in "sunny Sarajevo", with two presenters and 10 countries competing fulfilling all the expected quirks. So, we got a boy band from Russia, a Björk lookalike from Iceland, a ridiculous Bono from Ireland (I should shut up, because there was such an amount of irish people in the audience, that he won) ... I should say that the "faux" post-industrial rock german group was pretty good, and I would have liked to hear more of them. It was great fun, specially when the voting arrived ( Royaume Uni, deux points ). Most of the people were able to join in and send SMS.

Monday came with bright blue skies. While I was sitting in the lounge having my breakfast, I discovered that the irish guy had indeed gone to the Tatoo and had been fleeced by an scalper. He paid something like 100 pounds for a ticket. Way too much for me.

I first went to the Fringe Half-Price booth. I had hoped to get tickets for "Teenage Kicks", the play based on John Peel´s life, but mondays was their day off. I sat down at one of the computers there, and looked for things going on during the afternoon. I found that "Njinsky´s last dance" was on that day, and I got one of the last tickets. The computer tent installed there is very handy when you want to check what´s going on and buy your last minute tickets. Then you just walk up to the counter with your credit card and they give you the tickets.

And then I began to walk around town. First up to Carlton Hill. The day was amazing, with blue skies and scattered clouds, and the views were resplendent all around. One of the things that I noticed during my stay in Edinburgh is that nature is very, very near to the town. The hills are just there, so bare of trees and so full of heather that you cannot really believe it when coming from a congested big city.

I continued my meandering through town, and I went looking for the new and polemic Scottish Parliament. I don´t really understand all the fuss. A very interesting building, but I couldn´t see how it was disturbing the town architecture around it (I saw far worse things). I specially liked the windows.

Nearby I grabbed a roasted pepper and salami roll (very, very good and freshly made in front of me), and headed back up to the Pleasance for my dosis of "Potted Potter".

Ps. I lied. Quidditch in the next instalment.